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When the mayor of Lesbos tried to ban a group of actual lesbians from having fun on his island, I was sent to cover their visit. I learned nothing about my sexuality, but plenty about humility<br>
With just nine residents, the Peloponnese retreat of Vamvakou was on the brink of extinction. Now it’s at the centre of a multi-million-euro project to lure back tourists and transform it into a tech hub