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Homesick Texan
02.05.2025
A few years ago, it was declared that Dallas’s most iconic dish is strawberry butter. It cited that it had long graced tables at The Zodiac Room, a restaurant in Neiman Marcus's flagship department store
04.04.2025
My addiction to frozen pizza (I know…) has introduced me to a variety of pies, with some not always being the platonic ideal of the form. Fortunately, bad pizza can be easily remedied. This is
21.03.2025
In James Michener’s epic novel Texas, he has a scene where two discuss why beans are not included in Texas chili. The characters conclude that it's because beans and beef cook at different speeds. For
07.03.2025
One of the ways I learned to cook was by preparing the recipes presented to me in my daily media consumption. Thirty years ago, this included reading a paper version of the New York Times
21.02.2025
My grandma’s last meal was a bran muffin. This was apt, since eating a warm one was her favorite way to begin the day. She liked to share, and she'd offer you one whenever you
24.01.2025
If your family is like mine, you have a favorite Tex-Mex restaurant. This is the place where you know you can get a large table that will hold everyone, and there are enough options on
10.01.2025
There is one cookie that reminds me of Dallas in the 1970s—a chewy oatmeal cookie laced with caramelized butterscotch chips. When I was young, a plate of these was seen at friends’ houses, bake sales,
20.12.2024
A few years ago, I woke up on New Year’s Day with a craving for collard greens. While I ordinarily prefer coffee and banana smoothies for breakfast, I went with my urge and prepared a pot. Some believe that your first
06.12.2024
In a novel I was recently reading, a character had friends over for dinner. While she cooked she offered her guests bacon rosemary spiced pecans. Her guests loved the smoky, sweet nuts and their enthusiasm
22.11.2024
My eldest nephew Austin recently became a high school student. Since he's been old enough to stand on a chair, he's been helping his parents in the kitchen. These days, he can reach the counter
15.11.2024
The other day, I saw on a Dallas food forum a request for places that serve champurrado. This is a Mexican beverage that combines hot Mexican chocolate with masa harina to create a thick and
01.11.2024
Many years ago when I wrote about asado, a West Texas stewed pork and red chile dish, I heard from a linguist based in El Paso. He said that grammatically the dish was incorrect since
18.10.2024
The first time I heard of a Tex-Italian tortellini dish, it was referenced on a restaurant menu that has a reputation for this type of fusion. It’s in Lubbock, and I’ve written about their Italian
04.10.2024
“How can you eat that so early in the morning?” asked my friend. She gestured with a fork at the plate in front of me, which contained a softball-sized muffin dotted with pockets of cream
20.09.2024
For the past few years, I’ve been drawn to creating a dish using chicken and yellow squash. In several of my South Texas community cookbooks, this dish appears in several different guises, and in theory,
06.09.2024
A few years ago when I was at a bookstore in West Texas, I met a longtime reader. She asked me what my plans were, and I admitted that for the past few months, I’d
23.08.2024
If you were to come to my house, you’d find in my refrigerator a pot of pinto beans, a stack of flour tortillas, a jar of pickled jalapeños with carrots, and a homemade salsa. There’d
09.08.2024
One of my recent obsessions has been hot dogs. While I’m still acquiring the knowledge to make hot dog wieners from scratch (stay tuned...), I’ve still been researching this humble sausage, and surprisingly, it’s featured
26.07.2024
When I lived in New York, the fresh dill at the grocery store usually came from Texas. More famous Texan offerings, such as peaches, pecans, or cantaloupes, were absent at my local market. But whenever
12.07.2024
When you get together with my father's side of the family, you can be assured that hard-boiled eggs will be on offer. They stir them into gravies, slice them into salads, and stuff them for
28.06.2024
For the past few summers, I’ve been tinkering with a recipe for peach ice cream pie. The combination of sweet fruit, cinnamon crust, and cool ice cream works in theory, but so far, I haven’t
14.06.2024
A few years ago, a Brooklyn friend announced she was going to smoke a pork shoulder for pulled pork. She’d provide the meat and the rest of us could bring the accompaniments and trimmings. The
31.05.2024
Last year, a group of dear friends and I took a road trip out to far West Texas. It’s a long drive from DFW, and our group made sure that we had plenty of provisions
17.05.2024
When you look at cookbooks from the early part of the nineteenth century, you’ll find extensive chapters on salads. Even though the books have been in print for over one hundred years, I often find fresh ideas
03.05.2024
While I was smoking a pork belly up at Goldee’s BBQ recently, I asked one of the owners, Lane, how he liked to serve it once it was done. He mentioned a sauce made with jam. True to form, I
19.04.2024
In 1975, my grandma baked a loaf of poppy seed bread. While this may not seem worthy of mention, it was an unusual act in that she never repeated this performance. I don’t recall seeing
05.04.2024
The last dinner my grandma made for me was in November 2017. I was in town for a book signing, and while she hadn’t felt energetic enough to attend the event, she still cooked for
22.03.2024
Every Christmas, my Uncle Austin gives the family homemade granola. During a recent survey of my refrigerator, I found a bag from the previous year. Because his ingredients are all dried goods, it was still
08.03.2024
When I was young, my mom introduced the family to a new cheese spread. It was a foil-wrapped puck of white cheese that was laced with garlic and herbs. The cheese was smooth and creamy
23.02.2024
For years, I’ve had the notion of chicken-fried catfish on my mind. While typically, I eat my fried catfish dredged in a cornmeal coating, I wondered if treating the fish like chicken-fried steak, with its
09.02.2024
When I was making plans to visit Lubbock, a friend gave me some advice. “Go to Orlando’s Italian restaurant, and order the mafia queso,” she said. “It’s outstanding.” Lubbock, Texas sits at the crossroads of
26.01.2024
A few years ago, Deb Perelman of the Smitten Kitchen blog introduced the world to a dish she called pizza beans. It was a pan of beans baked with tomato sauce and cheese. While her
19.01.2024
Every Sunday afternoon, I make a pot of pinto beans. They’re nothing special, I just like to keep beans on hand for when I get a craving during the week. With these pintos, I’ll spoon
12.01.2024
At the Indianapolis 500 race in 1970, Texas and New Mexico were pitted against each other, both on the track and off. In the lineup of drivers was Lloyd Ruby of Wichita Falls and brothers
29.12.2023
When my uncle gave me a bag of dried black-eyed peas he'd grown this summer, I mentioned that last year I’d made black-eyed pea tamales. Intrigued, he peppered me with questions. Were the peas whole
22.12.2023
One of my favorite holiday gifts is spiced nuts. They’re simple to prepare, and the nuts are a willing receiver for a host of flavors. While the savory combination of cumin and cinnamon has been
15.12.2023
Over the past year, as I’ve been learning to cook meat on a smoker, I’ve had the revelation that smoking meat is not much different from cooking meat in an oven. The outcome is a
08.12.2023
For a friend’s birthday last year, I made a batch of my mom’s raspberry bars. The tangy raspberry jam matched with the rich white chocolate and the buttery cake-like foundation is always a huge hit.
Five years ago, I was having a very bad day. My plane back to New York City was about to depart, and while I was in McKinney with my family, my apartment keys were back
01.12.2023
My hairdresser asked me why I lived in Dallas. “You’re not like most of the Dallasites I know,” he said. “In fact, when I first met you, I figured you’d move back to New York