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Simon’s sizing advice (winter) – Permanent Style
Every six months, I forget what it’s like to run the pop-up shops. They’re only four days each (London and New York) but they’re so intense, just talking to people non-stop for eight hours, giving advice and fetching sizes. I don’t know how salespeople do it. I also find I...
The unique shoe tradition of Austro-Hungary – and where to get them today – Permanent Style
The Austro-Hungarian tradition of shoemaking is a significant one - until fairly recently it was the most influential in Europe, after the English. It is also a type of shoe (rounder, larger, more comfortable) that is perhaps a little more fashionable today. I've tried a few such makers, including Vass,...
Denim and tweed: My Scotland travel capsule – Permanent Style
I usually find packing for work trips quite straightforward. I know what I’ll be doing, in what kinds of places, and therefore what clothing will be appropriate. The challenge is smaller things like a summer jacket that with go with both tailoring and jeans - as with my Japan capsule. ...
What does a green shirt (and a brown stripe) go with? – Permanent Style
I really love playing with new colours in clothing. It’s like a fun little exercise in how much you know about what goes with what - how far you’ve come in your menswear journey. Yet at the same time, I also find it consistently throws up surprises. You try the...
A Guide to Shawl-Collar Cardigans – Permanent Style
By Manish Puri. Unless you’re a complete newcomer to classic menswear (welcome, take a seat wherever you like) you're unlikely to need me preaching to you about the elegance of a shawl-collar cardigan. You’re already a member of the choir and sound fabulous. What you might need is some reassurance...
The rules and how to break them #12: Don’t use your pockets – Permanent Style
The ‘Rules’ section on PS is a repository for all those conventions that have built up over the years around classic menswear and which people quote too much, often without thinking what they mean, why they exist, or why in fact they should be followed. We’ve addressed a fair...
How to do double denim, and mixing rough and smooth – Permanent Style
One of the things Jamie and I were keen to do with The Casual Style Guide was bring in comments from some of the people featured - what they thought about the outfits, rather than just us. So we approached five people, and asked them to give us a couple of...
Unmilled Coarser Heavier Worsted Wool Twill Trousers – Permanent Style
Not everyone likes flannels. They can bag a bit, at least more than the worsteds guys are used to wearing to the office. That just means a press now and again, but hey some people are very lazy busy. If flannels aren’t an option, and it’s too cold for high-twists,...
Furiko Yo-Kimono: London’s vintage kimono collection – Permanent Style
By Ben St George. Ben is a freelance menswear writer and has been exploring some unusual brands and shops for us. I wasn’t aware of Furiko Yo-Kimono, a small kimono specialist tucked away at the back of The Factory creative hub in Dalston (East London) until Simon put it on...
The (61) bespoke tailors I have known – Permanent Style
This article has been updated every four years for the past 12 years. It was originally written in 2012, and has had new versions in 2016, 2020 and now 2024. The number of bespoke tailors we have tried and covered has increased, but the growth peaked somewhere in the...
Personal and practical: How to dress like Alex Natt – Permanent Style
I’ve admired the style of photographer Alex Natt – who takes most of the pictures for Permanent Style these days – for several years. He’s not the kind of person to talk about it much, and he certainly doesn’t post fit pics online, but to me his functional, easy-going...
August Special, Besnard, Haversack: Autumn highlights 2024 – Permanent Style
1. Snow Peak Boa Fleece jacket £220, Large If a Permanent Style reader wanted a good fleece - for park wear as much as mountain wear - this Snow Peak one ticks most of the boxes. It’s a nice style, in a good fleece, without any obvious branding and certainly...
Introducing: The Court Jacket – Permanent Style
For the new collaboration this Autumn, I wanted to design something that would suit the PS audience but be sportier - for taking the kids to the park at the weekend, rather than to town during the week. The inspiration came when I found an old nylon popover - bright...
Made-to-order Anthology shirt: Review – Permanent Style
The Anthology has an interesting shirt offering that I only really discovered recently. Perhaps because it’s not that clearly flagged up on the website. You can get most of their shirts to order, selecting a size that determines the chest and the collar but then specifying the waist, sleeve length...
Casual craft: How a Real McCoy’s leather jacket is made – Permanent Style
Casual clothing like jeans or a leather jacket require rather less craft than a bespoke jacket or shoes. There isn’t the same amount of precise handwork, or the visual engineering required to cut cloth perfectly around our imperfect bodies. But that doesn’t mean there’s no craft, and often in discussions...
Luca Museo navy three-piece suit: Review – Permanent Style
Yeah, the collar on this shirt is kinda high. I remembered it as soon as I saw these images - it was one I tried with a higher collar in order to wear with my A&S tailoring, which always has a high collar itself. It looks nice with those pieces,...
Natalino: Cheaper well-styled tailoring – Permanent Style
Natalino offers a lower level of tailoring than most brands we cover, but with much more PS style than others at that price point. Particularly now they have a physical shop in London, they’re competing with the likes of Hackett, Boggi or SuitSupply, and I’d certainly recommend Natalino over them....
The Suede Overshirt made-to-order programme – Permanent Style
The Suede Overshirt in tobacco has recently been restocked on PS, having sold out quickly back in the spring. But we’re also going to try a made-to-order programme, as the makers Rifugio are happy to make in small numbers. The idea is that readers will be able to pick the...
A Guide to Mohair – Permanent Style
There are two main reasons people use mohair for tailoring today. One is for eveningwear, when they want something with a little more sharpness and lustre; the other, less common, is as an alternative to high-twist wools in the summer. And there’s a third, increasingly rare, which is to...
A tonal exercise in 14 looks – Permanent Style
One of the things that first attracted me to Rubato as a brand was their style: that particular mix of laid-back Ivy and tonal Scandinavian (ref. our five casual paradigms). It managed to feel refreshing yet familiar. Style is more important to the value of these brands that some realise....
Introducing: The dark navy Donegal – Permanent Style
For our new iteration of the Donegal coat, I wanted to create a version that was the easiest possible colour, weight and pattern to wear. Readers ask so much about versatility - about having one good coat - so I knew making something that could be smart and casual, office...
The Wax Walker: How Great Things Age – Permanent Style
At the beginning of the year, I asked readers if they had a Wax Walker we could feature as part of our ‘Dry January’ project. We were focusing on how things age and become more beautiful with wear, and wax jackets are particularly nice in that respect. A few got...
Belt capsule guide: The basics – Permanent Style
There’s been a lot more interest in belts with smarter clothing in recent years - something I highlighted and explained my reasoning for in this article. But we’ve never done a ‘wardrobe building’ piece on them, or set out my general advice in one place - at least, not since...
London pop-up(s)! Details for the two events, plus New York and outerwear update – Permanent Style
It’s taken us longer to get the London pop-up shop organised this year, largely because Savile Row and its environs are now increasingly filled up. But we finally have confirmation, and I can announce that we will be in our old space at 20 Savile Row from October 30 to...
The work in a bespoke jacket: Part 3 (sleeves) – Permanent Style
One of the most important functional aspects of a bespoke suit is its small armhole. Or rather, the way a large sleeve can be worked into a small armhole. It means the sleeve is separated, and can move around without dragging the body with it. However, the extra material of...
Cheyul: Traditional Korean lacquer craft – Permanent Style
Every time we go on a trip to a new country, we try to cover a bit of the local non-menswear craft alongside the usual tailoring, shirtmaking and shoemaking. When we were in Japan a couple of years ago, we visited the master blade-maker Sasuke in Sakai. That turned out...
Bryceland’s made-to-measure jacket: Review – Permanent Style
Hello! This is my made-to-measure jacket from Bryceland’s in London, in the Fox/Permanent Style tweed. It’s rather good - not the absolute best MTM fit I've had but solid, with more importantly great style, and significantly, a bespoke level of make. The importance of the style only occurred to me...
The Rider’s Raincoat is back, in new beige and restocked khaki – Permanent Style
The weather definitely turned in London last week. All of a sudden there was knitwear around, and raincoats. The first day it was cold and rainy - Wednesday - we had five questions on different articles asking about the best macs. Happy to help on other styles, but this is...
Lorenzi, Milan: The rebirth of a menswear jewel – Permanent Style
One of my favourite shops in Milan used to be a little hole in the wall on Via Montenapoleone. Squeezed between big luxury boutiques, it was a real jewel of a place, tiny but perfect, selling equally tiny but perfect accessories - knives, cutlery, shaving paraphernalia, plus things you never...
What I’m looking forward to wearing this winter – Permanent Style
By Jamie Ferguson. Hey there Permanent Stylers. Longtime contributor, first time writer so go easy on me. Now I may be in the minority here but I LOVE summer dressing. I enjoy the feeling of a cool breeze betwixt my nethers, brazenly unclasping that fifth button on my shirt as...
The enlarged, filterable Lookbook – Permanent Style
The Lookbook page on PS has long been a hidden jewel. A lot of readers find it useful but others don’t know it’s there. I blame the way people (including me) use websites today, searching and asking before reading and browsing. Well, the Lookbook is here, as well as under...
Broadway & Sons: A sunny afternoon in Stockholm – Permanent Style
“Shit. Look at that Simon, it was all shit.” David Asseraf is scrolling through his WhatsApp messages, showing me various deliveries of clothing. “This one they said it was all dungarees - US-made, 300 pieces - but they turned out to be dresses.” The founder of Broadway & Sons in...
Maison Hellard: Tasteful, experimental linen – Permanent Style
By Manish Puri. I’m in a car with Nathan Hellard - the founder of French linen merchant Maison Hellard - and we’re kindly being chauffeured by Nathan’s father, Philippe, from Pau to the commune of Assat, where the company is based. It’s a hot day, but the air conditioning offers...
Reviving the navy chalk-stripe suit: Ciardi DB in Fox collab cloth – Permanent Style
In the past few months on Permanent Style, we’ve shown a few outfits that are a little more unusual than perhaps typical: a notch or two further along the subtle/showy scale. The Art du Lin suit at Pitti probably falls into that category, as does this evening outfit with Bucherer....
The work in a bespoke jacket: Part 2 (lapels) – Permanent Style
In this, the second of our films looking at the details of making a bespoke suit, we're focusing on lapels. But not necessarily the hand padding - that most obvious sign of handwork, which you can see on the back of most bespoke lapels. We've covered that before and a...
How my shirt fit has changed in the past 15 years – Permanent Style
I know, a graph! Given the nerdery that’s often included on these pages, I’m surprised it’s taken so long for us to lead with a graph. (Mobile users: try opening the image in a new tab.) Let me tell you what it shows. This plots my body and shirt measurements...
The best German tailors working today – Permanent Style
By Bernhard Roetzel. In part one of this article I gave an overview of the state of bespoke tailoring in Germany, including its history. Today I will recommend some specific tailors, including my own experiences. Volkmar Arnulf www.arnulf-massatelier.de Of the old masters trained by the pre-war tailors, only Volkmar...
Autumn/Winter 2024 on the PS Shop – Permanent Style
Hello lovely readers, Here’s our regular update on what’s coming into the PS Shop over the next few months. We’ve included the information we have, but feel free to ask questions if you have them, as chances are someone else is thinking the same, and it’s good to have them...