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An ode to the Armani jacket – Permanent Style
By Dr John Potvin - the author of the book Giorgio Armani: Empire of the Senses and curator of the Instagram account @myarmaniarchive. A jacket can be very sensual if it has certain characteristics. Maybe a wider shoulder, a certain length, a fitted waist, or no waist at all. ...
Introducing: The Wool Walker – Permanent Style
Our new coat this winter is a wool/cashmere version of the popular Wax Walker. It’s a versatile coat that I think is the perfect year-round piece for the city, but also great with a knit and jeans at the weekend. We’re calling it, perhaps predictably, the Wool Walker. It has...
Cocktail rings and yellow diamonds: Chatting to Michael Rose – Permanent Style
“For me there is nothing more beautiful, more interesting and more tactile than vintage jewellery,” says Michael Rose, founder of the eponymous jewellery shops in the Burlington Arcade. This quotation stayed with me for a while after I interviewed Michael recently, I think because one of the things I wanted...
My vintage gold chain, and how to buy one – Permanent Style
A couple of years ago I bought a vintage gold chain, prompted initially by style considerations. One was the fact I wear so many fewer accessories - ties, handkerchiefs - despite still loving them as works of beauty, and of craft. Unfortunately they don’t say what I want to with...
Rock, Paper, Scissors: Nina Penlington Bespoke – Permanent Style
By Manish Puri. Sat by the window of The Red Lion just off Jermyn Street, Nina Penlington tells me what first led her to Savile Row: “My plan was to learn some tailoring skills and move into designing menswear. After about six weeks I realised that ain’t happening. Not everyone...
The removal of ‘de minimis’: Changes to the PS Shop for US readers – Permanent Style
As most of you will be aware, the current US government has been changing tariffs and duties in recent months. As some US customers will probably be aware, a new change comes in today - the end of the ‘de minimis’ rule. Under that rule, US consumers paid no duties...
The pre-owned sale on Saturday – and Zurich, Rubato events – Permanent Style
This coming Saturday we will be trying a new type of PS event - a pre-owned clothing sale. Everyone accumulates too many clothes when they love menswear, and finding a way to give them a new, loving home is both useful and responsible. The idea with the event is that...
Andrew: My journey in bespoke tailoring – Permanent Style
Our regular reader Andrew has contributed to many PS discussions over the years about bespoke, and given valuable advice to readers on both cloth and tailors. So I asked him to rewind a little and describe his whole experience from start to finish, with all the advice he could think...
The cream of the crop: My favourite off-white shirts – Permanent Style
By Manish Puri. Readers might have noticed that I’m quite fond of a light shirt. *Not honest enough. A breakthrough won’t come if you stay in denial* Readers, if I could be any animal I’d be a cat, the cat that got the cream…shirt. *What the hell are you jibbering...
The bespoke style of Atelier Arena – Permanent Style
By Aleks Cvetkovic. In bespoke tailoring terms, Tom Arena (above) has pulled off a clever trick. From his chic St James’s studio, he’s created a brand that is quietly enigmatic, sought after by all manner of high-powered creatives including Iwan Wirth, Hamish Bowles and Stephen Graham among others. When you...
Three eyewear brands recommended by Astrologo Ottica – Permanent Style
By Manish Puri. While on holiday in Italy a few years ago, I wanted to find some beautiful sunglasses, because is there any country that’s done more for the accessory? Both in terms of manufacturing and cultural positioning. Was it too much to hope I too could swan about the...
The Cinabre ‘Suites’ in Paris – Permanent Style
When we went to Paris recently to visit makers and shows (such as Man/Woman) I had the chance to stay in one of the Cinabre suites, which I’ve been wanting to do for ages. Some of the reasons for this are menswear-related. Most obviously, the rooms are above Cinabre itself,...
Canons bespoke oxfords: Review – Permanent Style
I covered the English bespoke shoemaker Canons a while ago, explaining their evolution from the team that was Foster & Son on Jermyn Street, and promising to review the brown-suede oxfords they made for me. Well they’re ready, I’ve been wearing them for a couple of months, and they are...
Can I wear this to the office? – Permanent Style
I get this question from readers quite a bit, and I think it reveals something about how they can focus on their inner world more than the external one. Because the obvious reaction is: how would I know? I don’t work in your office, I don’t know what other people...
An Introduction to Thai Silk – Permanent Style
By Manish Puri. On my recent trip to Thailand in celebration of my girlfriend’s birthday, in between attending three menswear dinners, documenting all of my outfits, and getting bitten by a snake, we actually managed to find time to do a couple of things that she wanted to do. I...
Autumn/Winter 25 on the Permanent Style shop – Permanent Style
Hello readers, Here’s our normal update on what’s coming into the PS Shop over the next few months. There are a couple of exciting new things, then restocks and new colours in the existing pieces. Feel free to ask any and all questions in the comments below - chances are...
A summer holiday capsule wardrobe – Permanent Style
We’ve done a few of these capsule wardrobes over the years, but I’ve never done one about my summer holidays. Manish has, but most of the time my family holidays have been covered in the ‘Holiday snaps’ series. Do look at those for more inspiration. This capsule collection is for...
The background to Permanent Style – video interview – Permanent Style
It's easy to think that everyone knows the story of Permanent Style by now. How a struggling young boxer worked for a pittance in order to get his shot at the big time, and was finally given his chance when...Oh no wait, that's Rocky. How a guy on a...
What artists wear, as projection and performance – Permanent Style
by Philipp Fröhlich. The artist is one of the most enduring archetypes of personal style - romanticised, quoted, and frequently featured in the fashion world. Part of this appeal lies in the cultural cachet artists carry: collaborations such as Yayoi Kusama with Louis Vuitton lend collections a visual identity that...
Who are my favourite made-to-measure tailors? – Permanent Style
A few readers asked for this piece after I did my article on my favourite bespoke tailors of all time last year. I haven’t tried as many made-to-measure as bespoke - 20 rather than 60 - but it’s still a good number in terms of pricing, style and geography. Enough...
Yves Salomon: Interview in Paris – Permanent Style
“When I was growing up, this whole area of Paris was leather and fur,” says Yves Salomon, head of the eponymous brand and manufacturer. “We’re buried in this little street, Cité Paradis, but all around us it was nothing but animal production - on Rue d’Hauteville and Rue des Petites...
New events: Casatlantic, J.Mueser, Subdial, pre-owned – Permanent Style
Autumn in the PS Showroom in London is going to be busy. We have Assisi coming back, the normal Permanent Style pop-ups in London and New York, and three new events: J.Mueser, Casatlantic and a pre-owned clothing sale. Plus the watch site Subdial are the PS special guests in London....
The PS Summer Wardrobe: A Care Guide – Permanent Style
We know the PS reader takes almost as much pleasure in caring for his clothes as he does wearing them. I said almost! When we launch a new product therefore, we try to provide as much information as we can on how best to look after it. Sometimes, however, that’s...
Gaziano & Girling made-to-order shoes: Review – Permanent Style
I said last year that we would cover more made-to-measure and made-to-order services on Permanent Style, as a way to broaden the coverage more beyond bespoke. Recently that has included MTO shirts at The Anthology and Bryceland’s, as well as MTM tailoring at the latter. Just as important as any...
Can you wear structured jackets with jeans? – Permanent Style
I think the short answer to this question is yes you can, but soft-shouldered jackets are easier and create a subtler look that most people prefer. It is an interesting question though, and one that rarely gets unpacked effectively - usually all you get is the usual blunt and unequivocal...
Jake’s shirts: Review – Permanent Style
I recently tried Jake’s shirts for the first time, after a few years of knowing Jake Wigham but assuming his softly made, straight cut wouldn’t be for me. A lot of friends wear and love them however, including Lucas, Alex and Jamie, and it was that that swayed me. Jake...
Corgi: These places give us the things we love – Permanent Style
Speciale, with whom we make our wonderful cotton sweaters, recently made this film at the Corgi factory in Wales. It shows some of the making process for the knits, but more importantly brings out the lovely atmosphere of the place - something I always love in factory visits. Workshops and...
Vienna: A menswear shopping guide – Permanent Style
By Bernhard Roetzel. Vienna is very different in many ways from London, but the two cities have one thing in common: both have been capitals of an empire. This explains why Vienna is so oversized in relation to the rest of Austria. And there’s another similarity: Vienna is pretty...
An education in jelly sandals – Permanent Style
Simon: Hi Lucas, what the hell have you got on your feet? Lucas: These are jellies, jelly sandals. Sounds like a weird children’s sweet. What are they made of? Plastic, but they’re actually a very traditional shoe, you should like them. Traditional? Like how old? The company that made these...
Old friends – Permanent Style
During our recent trip to Naples, there was a lovely moment when shooting outside Marinella, the famous tie shop. Maurizio Marinella (above) the proprietor, came out and greeted me. “Simon, come in, come in!” There was a pause, and then he added: “Let me show you the finest ties in...
The cornucopia of Cilento in Naples – and buying vintage cloth – Permanent Style
It would be easy to walk past Cilento in Naples. I know because I've done so myself, several times. There’s a good chance your eye will be caught by a silk tie in the window, or a bottle of perfume sitting there, expectantly. But then you’ll also notice women's handbags,...
The Decorum by Kamoshita: Review – Permanent Style
By Manish Puri. There’s an aversion to hyperbole here at Permanent Style. So, when I say that, having visited Bangkok earlier this year, I think The Decorum might just be the most exciting menswear retail hub in the world right now, it’s not a statement made lightly. Just take a...
Introducing: The hand-loomed Madras shirt – Permanent Style
This is our final product this summer, a Madras shirt hand-woven in the traditional manner in Chennai, and then hand sewn in Naples. It’s pure cotton, and has a striking but quite sophisticated check we first used on linen shirts five years ago. Neither Lucas nor I had worn this...
How the Permanent Style Madras was woven – Permanent Style
On Friday we’ll be launching our hand-woven Madras shirts, a collaboration we’re really proud of - both because of the people we visited in Chennai that made it so authentically, and because of the unique comfort and quality of the cloth. It’s not been an easy process. Hand-loomed cloth is...
Picasso’s tailor: How Michel Sapone embodied the artist’s spirit in clothing – Permanent Style
By Marcos Eliades. The story of Pablo Picasso’s tailor is a fascinating one. Long a fan of tailoring, Picasso eventually came to trust the Neapolitan tailor Michel Sapone completely, feeling he embodied the artist’s own eccentric and groundbreaking spirit. This led to bold, original designs, and the incorporation of new...
Finally getting it right: The tobacco linen suit – Permanent Style
Over time, I am certainly dressing better - more tastefully, more expressively and more personally - but there are ups and downs. The trend might be upwards, but it’s still a scatter diagram. My history with tobacco-linen suits is a good example. I’ve loved that colour in linen ever since...
The Cifonelli ‘foulard’ jacket – Permanent Style
Cifonelli have a developed a new style of jacket that is the most unstructured they’ve done. They call it a ‘scarf’ jacket, though the name in English is a little misleading - in French it’s ‘foulard’, which captures the light, flyaway silk they have in mind. It has no canvas...
A guide to knitted T-shirts – Permanent Style
By Manish Puri. The only suit you’ll ever need. Five hacks to up your style game. The ultimate summer wardrobe cheat code. These are headlines you’re unlikely to ever see on Permanent Style - and if you do it probably means Hell has finally been able to open that ski...