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By Ben Chamberlain. Denim jackets, there’s a lot of them – which in terms of choice is a good thing, but it can make it hard to tell them apart. From high-end repro to high-street fashun-fodder, most brands from Levi’s to Louis Vuitton have produced them at one time or...
I’ve never worn denim jackets much. They’ve usually been an occasional item, an experimental alternative to the suede blousons or chore jackets I wear more. I think partly it’s about the styles I associate them with, which is chiefly denim-obsessive workwear or more fashion-led womenswear. In fact, I wouldn't be...
A friend recently put me in touch with the German brand Stefan Brandt, which makes clothes out of an exclusive, extra-fine cotton jersey, as well as supplying it to fashion brands. The founder, Stefan, is obsessive when it comes to quality. He set up his own production in Ecuador in...
I'm delighted to say that the latest addition to the schedule of brands visiting the Permanent Style showroom is Rubato, who will be here in two weeks, May 15th-17th, Thursday to Saturday. They'll be in the showroom 10am-6pm, presenting Spring/Summer pieces - so not the lambswool knits and other autumn/winter...
By Erik Östling. Erik is a stylist and merchandising consultant based in Stockholm. He is 43 years old. Last year, a few publications like WSJ, GQ and Highsnobiety picked up on a microtrend inspired by older men’s style, which they called “Grandpa Core” or “Eclectic Grandpa”, with Tyler the Creator...
At the end of last autumn, I asked Steven Hitchcock to make an overcoat - it was a little late to start thinking about it, but I hoped to be able to wear it by the end of the winter. Unfortunately my travels and Steven’s got in the way, at...
The winter version we did of this article - published back in November - was popular and has proved useful in conversations with readers since. So here’s the summer equivalent: between the two of them all PS products should be covered, and the two will be combined on the shop...
By Robbie Collin. Robbie is the chief film critic for The Telegraph, a PS reader and a menswear enthusiast. On February 2nd 1660, Samuel Pepys passed the evening with half a dozen friends at Harper’s, a tavern by the King Street gate of Whitehall Palace. The main order of business...
No, this is not a story about how I arrived fashionably late to the party of the season, the ball hosted by the dashing Lord Unley. It’s about shoes. Last year Anglo-Italian introduced a new, unlined loafer in their shoe range - the Goodyear-welted part made with Crockett & Jones....
By Manish Puri. At the end of 2024 I received and reviewed an MTM dinner suit commission from Mickael at La Bowtique. The one-line summary was that, on a like-for-like basis (ie comparing this first commission to other first makes), I’d rank La Bowtique among the better MTM tailors I’ve...
By Manish Puri. There’s a scene in Frasier where Niles is packing some clothes to keep at his girlfriend Daphne’s place, for the morning after the nights he stays over. Daphne, becoming increasingly concerned that she doesn’t have enough spare room in her closet, asks: “Isn't there anything you can...
I mentioned in the cotton-crewnecks article last week that I enjoyed wearing tan accessories a lot during my recent trip to India. This might seem like a small thing, but when you get into a routine with clothing, anything that suddenly gives a twist to the wardrobe is refreshing. In...
We’ve written about Original Madras Trading Company before. Manish did an article last year explaining the history of the company - including its much larger manufacturing parent - and how it has resurrected hand-loomed madras in India. But there’s nothing quite like seeing it in person for the significance to...
By Manish Puri. By the time you read this I will have returned from my first-ever trip to Thailand, a glorious fortnight spent in Bangkok and some of the southern islands including Ko Pha Ngan and Ko Tao - both of which are popular with backpackers, the latter renowned for...
In the old areas of Chennai, you’ll often see a brightly painted deity on the corners of the streets. It’s not primarily an expression of piety, however - its main goal is to stop people pissing there. No matter how desperate or secular you might be, you’re unlikely to urinate...
I’ve been surprised at how popular these cotton crewnecks have been among our friends: they rival the black/white Donegal for the PS piece I’ve seen worn most often. Perhaps it’s because a few of them run hot, and it’s a good way to wear a chunky knit without overheating. But...
One of the things that has impressed me most over the years with my Whitcomb & Shaftesbury tailoring is how consistent it has been. That might not seem like the most exciting thing to praise, but it happens surprisingly often that an English tailor looks at a fitting garment and...
Eric Musgrave is a friend, the former editor of Drapers and the author of the book Sharp Suits. He recently moved to the north of England and has been getting to know many of the makers and manufacturers there and across the border into Scotland. So I asked him to...
The first issue of our new magazine, Permanent Style, is now available to buy. Which is a relief, given the number of people who have asked about where to do so since we announced it two weeks ago. You can buy: Online on the PS Shop - it is there...
Silk used to be more commonly seen in tailoring than it is today. That’s in large part because quality silk has become so expensive, but also I think because we’re less used to seeing it around – even on bespoke customers, let alone other people. The preconceptions people will...
In the past few weeks, the Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery has introduced ready-to-wear, unstructured tailoring for the first time. This is interesting to explore, because one of the first things the team said when they opened the Haberdashery was that they wouldn’t do any tailoring as it was too close...
By Jamie Ferguson. I’m back baby. Ya miss me? It’s only been what six months? Speaking of months they sure are getting warmer and that can mean only one thing… It’s time to shave all your knee hair off ‘cause shorts season is fast approaching, but have no fear as...
It was wonderful to see the response to the first pre-order a couple of weeks ago, for the Donegal coats and Indulgent Cardigans. The camelhair and dark-grey Donegal coats in particular have almost sold out (we only have a certain amount of cloth ordered) which is wonderful. That window closes...
The CEO of RM Williams was over recently, as part of a company focus on the UK – they recently opened shops in Marlow and Cambridge, and are planning others. I took the opportunity to interview the CEO Paul Grosmann, as I was interested to hear about the challenges of...
I told you a lot of exciting things were happening this year. In two weeks’ time we will be releasing our first proper magazine - called, of course, Permanent Style - to readers and shops, but also newsagents and book shops. It will come out twice a year, in March...
There is an old saying that you can tell a lot about someone by how they treat waiters. Actually it probably extends to anyone that serves you - bus drivers, bar staff, shop staff. The thinking is that if a seemingly nice, charming person is rude and patronising to someone...
By Bernhard Roetzel. I was pretty convinced that Permanent Style readers wouldn’t need an explanation of the term ‘Loden’. Still, I wondered whether a very English retailer like Cordings felt the need to define the word, so I searched it their website. I found 27 products made of Loden there,...
When I was growing up, the ‘Duffer’ of St George meant hoodies. You saw them on people like Jamie Oliver and David Beckham, and ripped off in every street market. It seemed to be the definition of an empty hype brand. But that was the tail end of the Duffer...
The pre-order period starts today for two PS products: the Donegal raglan-sleeved overcoat and the 12-ply cashmere piece we call the Indulgent Shawl-Collar Cardigan. The point of doing a pre-order is that it enables us to offer more colours and more sizes. We couldn’t hold all of these in stock,...
The pre-order for the PS Donegal coats, including this one, will open on Monday. Details in an article then. Instinctively, you wouldn't think a camel-coloured coat (whether actual camelhair or not) would be that versatile. It's not the business standard navy or grey, or the more rural brown or green....
I’ve known the brand De Bonne Facture for a long time, seeing them at stockists like Trunk and No Man Walks Alone over the years, and chatting to the founder Déborah Neuberg over dinner or at Pitti. I’ve also admired their philosophy when it comes to materials and manufacturing. Most...
The thing I was most excited about doing with our new PS Showroom (other than picking carpet colours, obviously) was helping brands come to London. Doing a pop-up is not cheap or easy, so helping someone do so affordably and with local advice is appreciated. We certainly appreciate it when...
A friend referred to this outfit as ‘dark Ivy’ recently, and I liked the idea. Traditional Ivy style has much to recommend it today, particularly the way it mixes sportswear and tailoring together. I set out the ways I like that attitude in this post a couple of years ago. ...
By Manish Puri. When I started to wear more tailored clothing - and it won’t surprise you to learn that coincided with when I began to read PS regularly - it seemed to me that the epitome of elegance was the ability to mix darker jackets with lighter coloured trousers. ...
Last year, I wrote about how one of my favourite tailors in Milan - Ferdinando Caraceni - was closing. It was an interesting article about the challenges of running a bespoke tailor today, but sad for all the customers that had built up a relationship with F Caraceni over the...
So this is pretty exciting. We've just completed on our first physical space for Permanent Style - a showroom and office on Harley Street, a couple of blocks from Oxford Circus. The plan is that this will have two functions: an office for me, Lucas and the increasing number of...
Hello lovely readers, Here’s our regular update on what’s coming into the PS Shop over the next few months. There are one or two new things, but mostly restocks and new colours in the existing, popular pieces. Feel free to ask any and all questions in the comments below -...
There are quite a few islands in the Thames, once you get out beyond Hammersmith to the west. Most of them aren't used for much other than boat clubs, but Platt’s Eyott is a an exception. There's an industrial area with workshops and recording studios, boats moored around the perimeter....