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How the Permanent Style Madras was woven – Permanent Style
On Friday we’ll be launching our hand-woven Madras shirts, a collaboration we’re really proud of - both because of the people we visited in Chennai that made it so authentically, and because of the unique comfort and quality of the cloth. It’s not been an easy process. Hand-loomed cloth is...
Picasso’s tailor: How Michel Sapone embodied the artist’s spirit in clothing – Permanent Style
By Marcos Eliades. The story of Pablo Picasso’s tailor is a fascinating one. Long a fan of tailoring, Picasso eventually came to trust the Neapolitan tailor Michel Sapone completely, feeling he embodied the artist’s own eccentric and groundbreaking spirit. This led to bold, original designs, and the incorporation of new...
Finally getting it right: The tobacco linen suit – Permanent Style
Over time, I am certainly dressing better - more tastefully, more expressively and more personally - but there are ups and downs. The trend might be upwards, but it’s still a scatter diagram. My history with tobacco-linen suits is a good example. I’ve loved that colour in linen ever since...
The Cifonelli ‘foulard’ jacket – Permanent Style
Cifonelli have a developed a new style of jacket that is the most unstructured they’ve done. They call it a ‘scarf’ jacket, though the name in English is a little misleading - in French it’s ‘foulard’, which captures the light, flyaway silk they have in mind. It has no canvas...
A guide to knitted T-shirts – Permanent Style
By Manish Puri. The only suit you’ll ever need. Five hacks to up your style game. The ultimate summer wardrobe cheat code. These are headlines you’re unlikely to ever see on Permanent Style - and if you do it probably means Hell has finally been able to open that ski...
Canons bespoke: How Foster’s has been reimagined and rewired – Permanent Style
Canons, the bespoke shoemakers in north London, is one of the most exciting recent developments in bespoke menswear. Simon Bolzoni (above) and his team have created a modern, efficient, and also now quite large operation that has grown despite little marketing or eye-catching design. It’s exciting because bespoke rarely feels...
Saman Amel made-to-measure overshirt: Review – Permanent Style
When Saman Amel introduced overshirts - or shirt-jackets as they call them - a couple of years ago I was interested to try one. Not many people do made-to-measure for simpler things like overshirts, and so for the more luxe-oriented customer there was an opportunity there to get something better...
Why I use Wil Whiting for bespoke shirts – Permanent Style
By Aleks Cvetkovic. As I grow a little bit older, and perhaps a little fussier (or grumpier?), I find myself returning most often to those craftspeople who are consistent in what they deliver. This is one of the reasons that I’ve been a return customer of Wil Whiting’s, alongside how well...
Can I wear a linen jacket with linen trousers? – Permanent Style
We used to write a ‘reader question' article every time someone had an inquiry here on PS. These days, questions are answered many times in the comments, and it takes something special to get a dedicated article. Well, this question about linens has been asked seven times in the past...
Tranquil House cashmere jacket: Review – Permanent Style
I recently received a cashmere jacket that I commissioned from Donghyun Kim, a Korean tailor who goes under the brand name Tranquil House, in Seoul. The jacket has some minor issues, however, after four fittings now. We had two in Seoul during the week I was there, and have since...
My first bespoke overcoat – Permanent Style
By Manish Puri. Spring is well and truly here in London. I’ve just returned from a stroll through my local green which was fizzing with people enjoying cold beers and iced coffees. Through the window I can see my neighbour scraping last year’s chargrilled residue from his barbeque, and from...
How brands quietly evolve products – e.g. the Sagan – Permanent Style
It's rare to cover how versions of a product improve over time. Reviews usually happen soon after release, as does the hype and excitement. Permanent Style covers products years after their purchase, of course, but that's more about how they’ve aged through wear, rather than how the brand has refined...
Repairing my vintage denim jacket – with Claxies – Permanent Style
The denim jacket I featured in our article a couple of weeks ago was second-hand and clearly in need of repair when I bought it (from Union Fade in Milan, which I'd highly recommend by the way). The fades on the jacket were incredible, as it had been worn from...
Seiji McCarthy loafers – final fitting and bespoke design – Permanent Style
I had my second fitting with shoemaker Seiji McCarthy last month, and the full-strap loafers are looking good. Loafers are the hardest thing to fit bespoke, but the trial pair I had are almost at that perfect point where I can kick them off my feet, yet the heels don’t...
The vibe of the summer: Lucas’s moodboard S/S 2025 – Permanent Style
Lucas is a great ‘moodboarder’, much better than me. Where my outfit choices are often driven by individual pieces - their craft and materials - and working outwards to an outfit, Lucas is often the opposite, starting with style inspiration and the mood of certain looks, and then working inwards. ...
Spring/Summer Highlights 2025 – including bespoke – Permanent Style
In this edition of our regular seasonal highlights we're doing things a little differently. First, I'm including bespoke commissions for the first time. This is in response to a few readers asking what, if anything, I’m having made, and it makes sense to me because it gives a fuller picture of...
Untucked shirts: When and how – Permanent Style
Readers often ask whether I wear shirts untucked - usually at this time of year, when suddenly an untucked shirt seems delightfully cool. The general answer is no but there are a few exceptions, enough to make it worth writing a full article rather than a one-word answer to a...
Should I stay or should they go? – Permanent Style
By Manish Puri. In the TV show Mad Men, there’s a great scene where Don Draper, growing tired of a client who is reluctant to follow his professional advice, feigns to end their meeting. “Listen, I'm not here to tell you about Jesus,” says Don. “You already know about Jesus....
Introducing the Ramie shirt (and shorts restocked) – Permanent Style
Our first completely new product for Spring/Summer launches today: the Ramie shirt. Last summer I found I was wearing my linen shirts quite a bit in casual or casual-chic outfits, but they often felt a little dressy. Fine linens are made to be a little sharper, particularly with a tie...
A guide to the best denim jackets – Permanent Style
By Ben Chamberlain. Denim jackets, there’s a lot of them – which in terms of choice is a good thing, but it can make it hard to tell them apart. From high-end repro to high-street fashun-fodder, most brands from Levi’s to Louis Vuitton have produced them at one time or...
My favourite way to wear a denim jacket – Permanent Style
I’ve never worn denim jackets much. They’ve usually been an occasional item, an experimental alternative to the suede blousons or chore jackets I wear more. I think partly it’s about the styles I associate them with, which is chiefly denim-obsessive workwear or more fashion-led womenswear. In fact, I wouldn't be...
Stefan Brandt: Superlative jersey but not my style – Permanent Style
A friend recently put me in touch with the German brand Stefan Brandt, which makes clothes out of an exclusive, extra-fine cotton jersey, as well as supplying it to fashion brands. The founder, Stefan, is obsessive when it comes to quality. He set up his own production in Ecuador in...
Rubato coming to the PS Showroom – Permanent Style
I'm delighted to say that the latest addition to the schedule of brands visiting the Permanent Style showroom is Rubato, who will be here in two weeks, May 15th-17th, Thursday to Saturday. They'll be in the showroom 10am-6pm, presenting Spring/Summer pieces - so not the lambswool knits and other autumn/winter...
Vanishing style icons: Why I’m obsessed with older men – Permanent Style
By Erik Östling. Erik is a stylist and merchandising consultant based in Stockholm. He is 43 years old. Last year, a few publications like WSJ, GQ and Highsnobiety picked up on a microtrend inspired by older men’s style, which they called “Grandpa Core” or “Eclectic Grandpa”, with Tyler the Creator...
Steven Hitchcock tweed overcoat (And makers closing their books) – Permanent Style
At the end of last autumn, I asked Steven Hitchcock to make an overcoat - it was a little late to start thinking about it, but I hoped to be able to wear it by the end of the winter. Unfortunately my travels and Steven’s got in the way, at...
Simon’s sizing advice: Summer – Permanent Style
The winter version we did of this article - published back in November - was popular and has proved useful in conversations with readers since. So here’s the summer equivalent: between the two of them all PS products should be covered, and the two will be combined on the shop...
Look at me! The white suit on screen – Permanent Style
By Robbie Collin. Robbie is the chief film critic for The Telegraph, a PS reader and a menswear enthusiast. On February 2nd 1660, Samuel Pepys passed the evening with half a dozen friends at Harper’s, a tavern by the King Street gate of Whitehall Palace. The main order of business...
Late to the Unley party – Permanent Style
No, this is not a story about how I arrived fashionably late to the party of the season, the ball hosted by the dashing Lord Unley. It’s about shoes. Last year Anglo-Italian introduced a new, unlined loafer in their shoe range - the Goodyear-welted part made with Crockett & Jones....
La Bowtique: The Accessories – Permanent Style
By Manish Puri. At the end of 2024 I received and reviewed an MTM dinner suit commission from Mickael at La Bowtique. The one-line summary was that, on a like-for-like basis (ie comparing this first commission to other first makes), I’d rank La Bowtique among the better MTM tailors I’ve...
Postcards from Thailand – Permanent Style
By Manish Puri. There’s a scene in Frasier where Niles is packing some clothes to keep at his girlfriend Daphne’s place, for the morning after the nights he stays over. Daphne, becoming increasingly concerned that she doesn’t have enough spare room in her closet, asks: “Isn't there anything you can...
The new Linen Overshirt in India – Permanent Style
I mentioned in the cotton-crewnecks article last week that I enjoyed wearing tan accessories a lot during my recent trip to India. This might seem like a small thing, but when you get into a routine with clothing, anything that suddenly gives a twist to the wardrobe is refreshing. In...
How hand-loomed madras is made: A visit to OMTC, Chennai – Permanent Style
We’ve written about Original Madras Trading Company before. Manish did an article last year explaining the history of the company - including its much larger manufacturing parent - and how it has resurrected hand-loomed madras in India. But there’s nothing quite like seeing it in person for the significance to...
The Rondini British sandal: A review from the road – Permanent Style
By Manish Puri. By the time you read this I will have returned from my first-ever trip to Thailand, a glorious fortnight spent in Bangkok and some of the southern islands including Ko Pha Ngan and Ko Tao - both of which are popular with backpackers, the latter renowned for...
The culture and colour of Chennai – Permanent Style
In the old areas of Chennai, you’ll often see a brightly painted deity on the corners of the streets. It’s not primarily an expression of piety, however - its main goal is to stop people pissing there. No matter how desperate or secular you might be, you’re unlikely to urinate...
Hand-framed cotton crewnecks in stock – with new colours – Permanent Style
I’ve been surprised at how popular these cotton crewnecks have been among our friends: they rival the black/white Donegal for the PS piece I’ve seen worn most often. Perhaps it’s because a few of them run hot, and it’s a good way to wear a chunky knit without overheating. But...
Starting from scratch: The Whitcomb & Shaftesbury workshop, Chennai – Permanent Style
One of the things that has impressed me most over the years with my Whitcomb & Shaftesbury tailoring is how consistent it has been. That might not seem like the most exciting thing to praise, but it happens surprisingly often that an English tailor looks at a fitting garment and...
Stewart Christie: Preserving Scottish bespoke in Edinburgh – Permanent Style
Eric Musgrave is a friend, the former editor of Drapers and the author of the book Sharp Suits. He recently moved to the north of England and has been getting to know many of the makers and manufacturers there and across the border into Scotland. So I asked him to...
Permanent Style magazine is live! – Permanent Style
The first issue of our new magazine, Permanent Style, is now available to buy. Which is a relief, given the number of people who have asked about where to do so since we announced it two weeks ago. You can buy: Online on the PS Shop - it is there...