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I recently received a cashmere jacket that I commissioned from Donghyun Kim, a Korean tailor who goes under the brand name Tranquil House, in Seoul. The jacket has some minor issues, however, after four fittings now. We had two in Seoul during the week I was there, and have since...
By Manish Puri. Spring is well and truly here in London. I’ve just returned from a stroll through my local green which was fizzing with people enjoying cold beers and iced coffees. Through the window I can see my neighbour scraping last year’s chargrilled residue from his barbeque, and from...
It's rare to cover how versions of a product improve over time. Reviews usually happen soon after release, as does the hype and excitement. Permanent Style covers products years after their purchase, of course, but that's more about how they’ve aged through wear, rather than how the brand has refined...
The denim jacket I featured in our article a couple of weeks ago was second-hand and clearly in need of repair when I bought it (from Union Fade in Milan, which I'd highly recommend by the way). The fades on the jacket were incredible, as it had been worn from...
I had my second fitting with shoemaker Seiji McCarthy last month, and the full-strap loafers are looking good. Loafers are the hardest thing to fit bespoke, but the trial pair I had are almost at that perfect point where I can kick them off my feet, yet the heels don’t...
Lucas is a great ‘moodboarder’, much better than me. Where my outfit choices are often driven by individual pieces - their craft and materials - and working outwards to an outfit, Lucas is often the opposite, starting with style inspiration and the mood of certain looks, and then working inwards. ...
In this edition of our regular seasonal highlights we're doing things a little differently. First, I'm including bespoke commissions for the first time. This is in response to a few readers asking what, if anything, I’m having made, and it makes sense to me because it gives a fuller picture of...
Readers often ask whether I wear shirts untucked - usually at this time of year, when suddenly an untucked shirt seems delightfully cool. The general answer is no but there are a few exceptions, enough to make it worth writing a full article rather than a one-word answer to a...
By Manish Puri. In the TV show Mad Men, there’s a great scene where Don Draper, growing tired of a client who is reluctant to follow his professional advice, feigns to end their meeting. “Listen, I'm not here to tell you about Jesus,” says Don. “You already know about Jesus....
Our first completely new product for Spring/Summer launches today: the Ramie shirt. Last summer I found I was wearing my linen shirts quite a bit in casual or casual-chic outfits, but they often felt a little dressy. Fine linens are made to be a little sharper, particularly with a tie...
By Ben Chamberlain. Denim jackets, there’s a lot of them – which in terms of choice is a good thing, but it can make it hard to tell them apart. From high-end repro to high-street fashun-fodder, most brands from Levi’s to Louis Vuitton have produced them at one time or...
I’ve never worn denim jackets much. They’ve usually been an occasional item, an experimental alternative to the suede blousons or chore jackets I wear more. I think partly it’s about the styles I associate them with, which is chiefly denim-obsessive workwear or more fashion-led womenswear. In fact, I wouldn't be...
A friend recently put me in touch with the German brand Stefan Brandt, which makes clothes out of an exclusive, extra-fine cotton jersey, as well as supplying it to fashion brands. The founder, Stefan, is obsessive when it comes to quality. He set up his own production in Ecuador in...
I'm delighted to say that the latest addition to the schedule of brands visiting the Permanent Style showroom is Rubato, who will be here in two weeks, May 15th-17th, Thursday to Saturday. They'll be in the showroom 10am-6pm, presenting Spring/Summer pieces - so not the lambswool knits and other autumn/winter...
By Erik Östling. Erik is a stylist and merchandising consultant based in Stockholm. He is 43 years old. Last year, a few publications like WSJ, GQ and Highsnobiety picked up on a microtrend inspired by older men’s style, which they called “Grandpa Core” or “Eclectic Grandpa”, with Tyler the Creator...
At the end of last autumn, I asked Steven Hitchcock to make an overcoat - it was a little late to start thinking about it, but I hoped to be able to wear it by the end of the winter. Unfortunately my travels and Steven’s got in the way, at...
The winter version we did of this article - published back in November - was popular and has proved useful in conversations with readers since. So here’s the summer equivalent: between the two of them all PS products should be covered, and the two will be combined on the shop...
By Robbie Collin. Robbie is the chief film critic for The Telegraph, a PS reader and a menswear enthusiast. On February 2nd 1660, Samuel Pepys passed the evening with half a dozen friends at Harper’s, a tavern by the King Street gate of Whitehall Palace. The main order of business...
No, this is not a story about how I arrived fashionably late to the party of the season, the ball hosted by the dashing Lord Unley. It’s about shoes. Last year Anglo-Italian introduced a new, unlined loafer in their shoe range - the Goodyear-welted part made with Crockett & Jones....
By Manish Puri. At the end of 2024 I received and reviewed an MTM dinner suit commission from Mickael at La Bowtique. The one-line summary was that, on a like-for-like basis (ie comparing this first commission to other first makes), I’d rank La Bowtique among the better MTM tailors I’ve...
By Manish Puri. There’s a scene in Frasier where Niles is packing some clothes to keep at his girlfriend Daphne’s place, for the morning after the nights he stays over. Daphne, becoming increasingly concerned that she doesn’t have enough spare room in her closet, asks: “Isn't there anything you can...
I mentioned in the cotton-crewnecks article last week that I enjoyed wearing tan accessories a lot during my recent trip to India. This might seem like a small thing, but when you get into a routine with clothing, anything that suddenly gives a twist to the wardrobe is refreshing. In...
We’ve written about Original Madras Trading Company before. Manish did an article last year explaining the history of the company - including its much larger manufacturing parent - and how it has resurrected hand-loomed madras in India. But there’s nothing quite like seeing it in person for the significance to...
By Manish Puri. By the time you read this I will have returned from my first-ever trip to Thailand, a glorious fortnight spent in Bangkok and some of the southern islands including Ko Pha Ngan and Ko Tao - both of which are popular with backpackers, the latter renowned for...
In the old areas of Chennai, you’ll often see a brightly painted deity on the corners of the streets. It’s not primarily an expression of piety, however - its main goal is to stop people pissing there. No matter how desperate or secular you might be, you’re unlikely to urinate...
I’ve been surprised at how popular these cotton crewnecks have been among our friends: they rival the black/white Donegal for the PS piece I’ve seen worn most often. Perhaps it’s because a few of them run hot, and it’s a good way to wear a chunky knit without overheating. But...
One of the things that has impressed me most over the years with my Whitcomb & Shaftesbury tailoring is how consistent it has been. That might not seem like the most exciting thing to praise, but it happens surprisingly often that an English tailor looks at a fitting garment and...
Eric Musgrave is a friend, the former editor of Drapers and the author of the book Sharp Suits. He recently moved to the north of England and has been getting to know many of the makers and manufacturers there and across the border into Scotland. So I asked him to...
The first issue of our new magazine, Permanent Style, is now available to buy. Which is a relief, given the number of people who have asked about where to do so since we announced it two weeks ago. You can buy: Online on the PS Shop - it is there...
Silk used to be more commonly seen in tailoring than it is today. That’s in large part because quality silk has become so expensive, but also I think because we’re less used to seeing it around – even on bespoke customers, let alone other people. The preconceptions people will...
In the past few weeks, the Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery has introduced ready-to-wear, unstructured tailoring for the first time. This is interesting to explore, because one of the first things the team said when they opened the Haberdashery was that they wouldn’t do any tailoring as it was too close...
By Jamie Ferguson. I’m back baby. Ya miss me? It’s only been what six months? Speaking of months they sure are getting warmer and that can mean only one thing… It’s time to shave all your knee hair off ‘cause shorts season is fast approaching, but have no fear as...
It was wonderful to see the response to the first pre-order a couple of weeks ago, for the Donegal coats and Indulgent Cardigans. The camelhair and dark-grey Donegal coats in particular have almost sold out (we only have a certain amount of cloth ordered) which is wonderful. That window closes...
The CEO of RM Williams was over recently, as part of a company focus on the UK – they recently opened shops in Marlow and Cambridge, and are planning others. I took the opportunity to interview the CEO Paul Grosmann, as I was interested to hear about the challenges of...
I told you a lot of exciting things were happening this year. In two weeks’ time we will be releasing our first proper magazine - called, of course, Permanent Style - to readers and shops, but also newsagents and book shops. It will come out twice a year, in March...
There is an old saying that you can tell a lot about someone by how they treat waiters. Actually it probably extends to anyone that serves you - bus drivers, bar staff, shop staff. The thinking is that if a seemingly nice, charming person is rude and patronising to someone...
By Bernhard Roetzel. I was pretty convinced that Permanent Style readers wouldn’t need an explanation of the term ‘Loden’. Still, I wondered whether a very English retailer like Cordings felt the need to define the word, so I searched it their website. I found 27 products made of Loden there,...
When I was growing up, the ‘Duffer’ of St George meant hoodies. You saw them on people like Jamie Oliver and David Beckham, and ripped off in every street market. It seemed to be the definition of an empty hype brand. But that was the tail end of the Duffer...
The pre-order period starts today for two PS products: the Donegal raglan-sleeved overcoat and the 12-ply cashmere piece we call the Indulgent Shawl-Collar Cardigan. The point of doing a pre-order is that it enables us to offer more colours and more sizes. We couldn’t hold all of these in stock,...